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Tahquitz Rock Climbing Notes

Tahquitz

This is NOT a guidebook. These are my notes and thoughts regarding some of the climbs I have done at Tahquitz Rock. They are based on recollections of more than 30 years of climbing at Tahquitz and as such, will most certainly contain errors and other inaccuracies.

These notes refer to routes that require specialized equipment, specialized training, a high level of fitness and good judgement to climb with an acceptable level of risk. It is impossible to avoid all risks when climbing. Hazards such as rocks falling from above, footholds or handholds breaking, and bad weather are a threat to even the most accomplished and well prepared climber.

White Maiden Buttress

Do not depend solely upon these notes when assessing a route. My strengths and fears may be very different from yours. You may waltz up a climb on which I experienced STARK TERROR. Something that was easy for me may be hard or dangerous for you. Your opinions regarding these routes will likely be different than mine!

These notes are not complete. Descriptions may be added, deleted or modified without notice, at any time. Some listed routes will have no description.

The most widely used guidebook for the area is Rock Climbing: Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines. This is the 3rd edition (June 2001) of the Vogel/Gaines guide with many new routes listed. In these notes the "Guidebook" may refer to earlier editions of the Gaines/Vogel guide, as well as the earlier guidebook by the AAC and Chuck Wilts, Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks.

Internet Climbing Resources

There is much climbing info on the Internet. Here are a few links:

Inclusion of a link does not constitute an endorsement.

Climbing

The Access Fund
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
The American Alpine Club
ASCA - Unsafe Anchor Replacement
Climbing/Bouldering - About.com
Climbing Magazine
RockList
Rock Climbing Equipment and Techniques
Rock & Ice
Somewhere Out There
 


Climbing Partners

Who you climb with is at least as important as what you climb and I've been lucky to have some great climbing partners. Thanks to Conrad Willett, Phil Warrender, Ron Van Horssen, Rich Grigsby, Gary Gunder, Greg Bender, Dennis Johnson, Tom Oetzell, Charles Foster, my son Brett Valle, and to several other folks with whom I've been fortunate to climb.

Overview

Since these are my thoughts, recollections and opinions the information included for a specific route will vary. Such things as a route's location, type of climbing, gear required, and other pertinent information, may or may not be included.

Clicking on thumbnail images will display a larger (30-40K) version of the image.

These notes include the following areas of Tahquitz:

Route Index

Girdle Traverse
GIRDLE TRAVERSE
East and Far East
EAST CRACK 5.10a
CHOCKSTONE GULLY Snow Climb
Northeast Face
Y CRACK 5.10b
LAST GRAPES 5.9
North Face
EL WAMPO 5.7
EL GRANDOTE 5.9
EL DORADO 5.10a R
EL MONTE 5.10b R
GRACE SLICK 5.10b
EAST VARIATION OF THE N.E. FACE 5.6
NORTHEAST FACE 5.6
TOE BIAS 5.9 R
HARD LARK 5.7
WEST LARK 5.5
THE (EAST) LARK 5.3
THE UNEVENTFUL 5.5
NORTH BUTTRESS 5.6
Northwest Recess
THE ERROR 5.6
SAHARA TERROR 5.7
HOODENETT 5.9
THE SWALLOW 5.8+ (5.10a)
THE GULP 5.9
CONSOLATION 5.9
LONG CLIMB 5.8
ILLEGITIMATE 5.9
Northwest Face
LOOKING BACKWARD 5.10a
FOOL'S RUSH 5.6
THE STEP 5.10a
SUPER POOPER 5.10a
Lunch Rock
LUNCH ROCK ROUTE 5.7 or 5.8?
West Face
PITON POOPER 5.7
GALLWAS' GALLOP 5.9
THE RACK 5.10a
THE JAM CRACK 5.8
DAVE'S DEVIATION 5.9
DEVIL'S DELIGHT 5.10b R
THE BLANK 5.10a
HUMAN FRIGHT 5.10a
FRED 5.11a
SWITCHBACKS 5.8 R
BLANKETTY BLANK 5.10c
FINGERTRIP 5.7
EL CAMINO REAL 5.10a
TRAITOR HORN 5.8
COFFIN NAIL 5.7+
ON THE ROAD 5.10c
South Face
OPEN BOOK 5.9
ZIGZAG 5.10b
MECHANICS 5.8 R
CHAUVINIST 5.8
SLING SWING TRAVERSE 5.9
THE OFFSHOOT 5.9
LEFT SKI TRACK 5.6
RIGHT SKI TRACK 5.9
CHINGADERA 5.11a
INNOMINATE 5.9
PAS DE DEUX 5.10b
DALEY'S DIRECT 5.6 R
ORANGE PEEL 5.5
BABY'S BUTT 5.6 R
CLIMB WITH NO BEGINNING 5.5
DIDDLY 5.10a
LIZARD'S LEAP 5.9
Summit Block
RED ROCK ROUTE 5.1
UPSIDEDOWN CAKE 5.10b or so


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